The ferry between the islands has always been an adventure. But now there’s something new: suitcases are weighed. “Weight and balance,” they call it officially — 23 kilos is the maximum.

In rough weather, many passengers change color. There are three main shades: pure white, green, and flushed red. Some even switch shades several times during the crossing. The atmosphere then takes on a new dimension. Crew members rush back and forth with empty and full bags. Passengers with their heads in buckets, or with a single drop hanging from their nose.

The trip can be impressive. Whales, flying fish, and birds diving after them. Passengers usually remain motionless or make subtle antiperistaltic movements.

Departure and arrival times are flexible. Sometimes even on the same day. What you can or cannot bring is a guessing game. The answer changes regularly.

The only certainty? The ferry will depart. At some point.